The distracting dark raccoon eyes on the Marc Jacobs fall / winter 2012 show added as much drama to the runway as the colourful mink hats.

Taking inspiration from Italian heiress Luisa Casati, the bold eyes peeped through messy strands of hair covering the face. This look could have been associated with one after a messy night out, but at the Jacobs’ show, the look contended the norms and was modelled in a very sober arena.

We already gave you a detailed hair how-to for the plaited buns seen at Marc Jacobs’ fall show. If you master these smudgy eyes and pale skin, then you’re safe to tag yourself as a Marc Jacobs creation.

After the break, Sydney-based hair and make-up artist Anni Hall breaks down the look, to help you create it off the runway.

Skin


Makeup director, François Nars, was instructed to create bare and fuss-free skin, keeping in mind that the eyes were the main asset of the look. For this pale and ultra matte make-up look, perfectly nourished skin is a necessity, as Anni Hall suggests.

First step is to apply a foundation or tinted moisture to even out the skin tone. Then apply a good-quality compact or loose powder on top to give the matte effect.

However, if your skin isn’t hydrated or moisturised, powder might make your skin look blotchy and dry.

“For an instant skin boost try using a serum or a rich face oil (such as rosehip) for super hydration,” says Hall.

Do remember that there is no application of a blush or bronzer here. The canvas has been left bland to bring out the bold eyes.

Eyes


The dark, grungy eyes are the highlight of this look. You can’t classify this as a smoky eye, because the top lid is devoid of a bold colour. It’s all about the lower lash line here. It’s smudged and messy, but also rich and decadent. Nars mixed two shades of black to create these “dreamy but sad eyes” for Jacobs show.

However, if we had to be honest, these super smudged eyes aren’t that sustainable off the runway. Well unless, you want to make it as though you did your make-up after a few glasses of champagne.

Marc Jacobs makeup backstage

In the steps below, Hall suggests ways to experiment with products and make this look a part of your everyday look.

To disguise veins and discolouration over the eyelids, apply a wash of a neural taupe eye shadow. This is great to brighten tired eyes, as it sweeps across the lids better than a concealer. If you’re just after a matte base on the top lid, swipe a cream-based foundation followed by a dab of translucent powder.
But if you want to jazz it up a little, step up and apply a more obvious colour on the top lid, almost like colour-blocking your eyes against the black.
Take a kohl pencil (black or a colour of your choice), apply it on the bottom waterline and under the lashes. Take a smudging brush and blend the colour outwards to the edges of the eye. Be sure you don’t take the colour downwards as that’ll tire your eyes and make them prone to a panda-look.
Apply one or two coats of mascara on your top and bottom lashes. Keep this black, as you don’t want to overdo with the colours.

Brows


“Make sure you give your brows some love. Define and slightly darken with a brow powder so it balances out the colour under the eyes,” says Anni Hall.

If dark brows overwhelm you, fill them with a pencil before you do your eye make-up. This way, the brows will act as a foundation to your face and create a guideline on how exactly you want your eyes to look thereafter.

joan smalls eyebrows

Lips


The lips for this look are very neutral and nourished. There isn’t even a touch of colour on them; they’ve been left very natural. As this look was created for an autumn/winter show, you want to ensure your lips are well moisturised for the chilly, dry season.

Apart from drinking lots of water, Hall suggests investing in Chanel’s Hydramax + Active Nutrition Lip Care. It will give a slight sheen, while also keep the lips hydrated for hours.

Panda eyes pale lips

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