How to: smokey olive-green beauty look

While the green eyed monster is something that everyone hates, this smokey green eyed beauty look from a photoshoot we featured by Ed Purnomo is one that we can’t help but love. Created by makeup artist Nicola Johnson, this look was meant to balance the whites and pastels of the clothes made by Mok Theorem. Stylist Giarne Wedes also added ornate accessories to the outfits which complemented both the clothing and the beauty look very well.

Nicola Johnson (nicolajohnson.com) walked us through the steps on how to get this smoldering look. Smokey green eyes never looked this good. Check out the complete how-to from Nicola after the break.

Click the thumbnails for full pictures:
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo
Alice by Ed Purnomo

How to: smokey olive green eyed beauty look

Skin.

In order to create healthy glowing skin its important to start with good skin care and prep the skin well.

Massage the skin for a few minutes using a good moisturiser. This stimulates blood flow, feeding the skin with essential nutrients and creating a healthy glow. Nicola used Dermalogica’s Skin smoothing cream: you will find that by taking time to do this your foundation will sit better on your skin. Leave the skin for a moment to rest and apply a lip balm – Nicola recommends Elizabeth Arden’s 8 hour crème.

Prime.

Using your fingers, work a primer into the skin. A good primer will contain Silica or silicone which is a water-binding agent that keeps your makeup in place and also repels water and sweat. For the shoot, Nicola chose Dermalogica skin perfect primer which soothes the skins surface and has Neutral tint. This helps balance tone and enhance luminosity and radiance. It also has SPF 30 – very important for shooting outdoors.

Foundation.

Nicola used MAC’s face and body in C1 for Alice’s fair skin. Use your hands to work the product in so it disappears and then buff over the skin using a dual fiber brush like MAC’s 188. Spot concealed around the nose and under the eyes using MAC’s mineralise concealers which hydrates and brightens the skin.

Eyes.

Nicola always uses a cream base for the eyes, her tip being that it ensures longevity of your eye shadow and prevents creasing. For this look, use MAC’s paint pot in ‘Bare study’ which gives you a shimmery, reflective base. Then, line the eyes – top and bottom lash line – with MAC’s powerpoint eyeliner in ‘Forever green’, softening the line with a small pencil brush like the 219 brush by MAC. Under the brow use ‘Grain’ and on the lid use ‘Greensmoke’ both by MAC, blending the two together using small circular movements along the crease line. Using an angle brush apply ‘Greensmoke’ over the eyeliner on the bottom lash line, and then soften the line again with a pencil brush. Finally, use a white eyeliner along the waterline, which opens up the eyes giving a softer, ethereal look.

Highlighter.

Nicola explains that she wanted to create a 3D effect on the skin, so she used quite a lot of highlighter – under the arch of the brow, across the center of the forehead, the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, the cupid bow and on the chin. For every day highlights, just highlight the cheekbones and cupids bow (the V above the top lip). For the shoot she used Shiseido’s Accentuating Colour Stick In Glistening Flush.

Blush.

On Alice, Nicola used a crème blush by MAC in ‘So Sweet, So Easy’ which has undertones of yellow and pink making it perfect for fair skin. Buff it onto the apples of the cheeks, sweeping upwards onto the cheekbone.

Powder.

Nicola used a lot of crèmes for this look and she wanted to keep the skin looking dewy. In order to do this, only powder very lightly using Mac prep and prime powder on the forehead and chin.

Contour.

Continuing with the 3D effect, you need to contour the skin as well. Nicola used MAC’s blot powder in Dark for subtle contouring but you can use any matte bronzer or a pressed powder that is darker than your natural skin tone. Contour the temples, under the cheekbones, down either side of the nose & along the jawline.

Lips.

A pastel pink lip was used for this look. Press the colour onto the lips with a clean finger, creating more of a lip stain for a quick, fresh approach to lipstick. Nicola used MAC’s Sheen supreme lipstick in Royal Azalea. Top with a clear gloss on the center of the lip only, to give the illusion of a fuller lip.

Soft, dewy and subtle and yet with a beautiful green on the eyes, this look will work particularly well on paler skin. For darker skin, exaggerate the green a little more. Either way, it works for night and daytime looks, while being fairly simple to achieve. Others will be green with envy as you make heads turn with this stunning beauty look.

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Melanie is a fashion designer, entrepreneur and writer who is always up for a challenge. This is probably the reason why she has immersed herself in the very dynamic fashion industry. She currently has her own couture business in her hometown of Manila, Philippines and confesses to being a hair and makeup junkie. She also loves all things D.I.Y and considers herself a bookworm.