Brunello Cucinelli, rightly nicknamed the self made philosopher king, aims is to provide the world, and “the world to come” with an everlasting trace of his work. It therefore comes as no surprise that the king of cashmere’s spring / summer 2012 collection for men offers, as usual, an unmatched timelessness.
However, certain details show that the designer has been affected by the world-wide trend of relaxed tailoring, as the whole collection gives a sensation of relaxation. We could easily imagine ourselves wearing those clothes during walks in the hills, picnics under the olive trees or whilst boating near Sicilia. If clothes had a smell, this collection would emanate the enchanting and exhilarating scent of southern Italy.
This is remarkable as double breasted suits, which dominate many of Cucinelli’s look, can usually seem quite stiff. This problem is solved by making the cut slim, yet not skinny, and softening the unpadded shoulders whilst keeping them rigid enough to give every suit the constructed look that transforms every piece into a power-suit.
Any respectable Italian will tell you that the shoes are the most important part of a man’s outfit, and this was taken into account when designing the pants, cut high enough to show the whole shoe, and sometimes so high that it could even accommodate someone with a more sporty life-style.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a Cucinelli collection without sweaters made from the finest cashmere on Earth. the implicit argument in those sweaters, which Brunello himself follows, is that wearing a well-made shirt, shoes, anything, not only feels good but dignifies a human being. And more, these aesthetic choices make you a better man and citizen.
The colours favoured are earthy, as we have become accustomed to. It is impressive to see how stylish all of Cucinelli’s creations are when we know that he very rarely (almost never) uses black for his pieces!
The designer often speaks of his desire to fill the world with beautiful things. He does this time after time with his clothes, and he does it again this year. The Brunello Cucinelli man has no need for showy luxury or wretched excess. He recognizes the beauty in simple pleasures: coffee in the early morning, a late lunch with plenty of wine, evenings spent by the fire in the company of those you love. He is the “uomo nuovo”, tired of our hectic lifestyle, dedicated to life’s simple pleasures.
View the full collection of Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring 2012 at the gallery above.