Navy is the new black, mid-calf the new length, youth the future of fashion. And when it comes to young and fresh designers, Amsterdam is one of the main places to look at (let’s not forget Iris Van Herpen as well as Viktor & Rolf are Dutch!). This season again, Amsterdam fashion week proved to be a fantastic source of new talents: a real space for designers to express their art and personalities.
Five of them caught my eye, some of which are bound to an international career such as their way of handling textures, shapes and colors was fantastic.
“Ionik”, Domenico Cioffi’s collection was all about mixing ancient Greece references with sportswear codes, leading to a graphic collection in which A-line colorful striped dresses, large off-white pants and a spectacular beige pure lined coat were showed.
It is in between art and fashion that Rebecca Ward decided to position her collection. Although some pieces were perfectly wearable and would draw everyone’s attention in the street (such as those tight pants featuring semi circular extensions around the knee or even the short black dress which opened the show), most of the dresses and skirts presented would have to be worn for a very special occasion. Reproducing on prints the texture of pink and grey marble, the designer proposed architectural, symmetric, almost rigid short dresses and created balanced silhouettes in spite of the imposing volumes.
Peet Dullaert’s collection was the perfect example of how new and innovative materials can be mixed in a tasteful and modern way with natural fabrics. The 23 years old designer used a diamond brooch belonging to his grandmother as a starting point to his collection “Liquorish”, which was rewarded with the Frans Molenaar Couture Price. From the hand-finished garments he presented, it was far more than feminity and elegance that emanated. The knitwear skirts, the bright orange and pink tones, the broad shouldered and puffing sleeves tops, they all breathed modernity. In a way it was like filling your lungs with Himalaya’s air after a long time getting it from a closed plastic bag.
Even before the Studio Jux’s collection started, we were all in a good mood thanks to the oh-so fashionable greened hair singer performing live on one side of the catwalk, accompanying the models’ neon steps. The fluid orange and red graphic print short dresses, the dark denim jumpsuits mixed with silver elements and even the mustard large floor length dresses, everything was 100% bohemian, and could have been worn at work, for a shopping afternoon and even a cocktail party.
Fabric mixture was at the center of Marijehellwich’s original outfits. It felt as if the designer had divided her work between two layers: a classical one over which she superposed foam or latex pieces. The result was simply stunning: a plastic tube covering a part of the silhouette, a padded white foam trench coat or a latex jacket.
Although it was cold and rainy, it was more than worth it to travel to the country where fashion grows fast and I am already looking forward to seeing their next collections!