It’s rarely a surprise when a collection presented during Copenhagen fashion week starts with a monochromic clean-cut dress and ends up with a strictly tailored multi-layered long shirt. Scandinavian fashion keeps on selling, in a safe sort of way, and those pure, almost clinical lines made the success of many brands, satisfying women in search of an easy form of elegance, without fuss and presenting almost no fashion risk.
Of course the timeless side of those outfits turn them into safe investments: an Adeline Andre color-blocking dress will never get old fashioned and a LBD will surely still be a fashion basic in ten years. As for the deconstruction movement, which mainly consists of tailoring outfits in an unconventional way, often using asymmetrical patterns and fabric layers in order to create architectural volumes, it can be seen as a direct reaction in opposition to minimalism and traditional tailoring.
The great thing about CFW is the fact it gathers extremely opposed sides of fashion, and Danish designers succeed at subtly mixing different movements on the very same look. Some collections still exclusively focus on one inspiration, such as Barbara i Gongini’s multi-layered outfits or David Andersen’s crazy trench coats featuring diagonal zippers, which surely deserve the “label” deconstructed.
Some other designers, such as Hubert, faithful to Nordic fashion, showed minimalist collections in which pants and dresses were reduced to their minimal essences. Though things are changing and you can feel designers are willing to take a modern path towards a softer approach to fashion, where collections bring together Scandinavia’s DNA and a more European & American inspiration.
The result is fantastic and this season again we were impressed by the ability of some brands to propose a multi-cultural approach through their collections. Among them, Edith & Ella’s America-in-the-50’s pleated dresses and floral blouses, Whiite’s light cotton mustard pants and Klein blue oversize dress creating rangy silhouettes as well as Noa Noa’s dark romantic 70’s inspired bohemian dresses and boyish looks.
Scandinavian’s fashion is going through a revolutionary change and the designers ready to encourage it may be rewarded with international success. The Nordic aesthetic blended with a livelier approach turns out to be powerful.