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Lanvin Mens S-S 2009 Paris
suzy menkes, iht.com:
Lanvin has made the aesthetic link between the two sexes, and the show Sunday, with its advanced fabric treatments within a gentle comfort zone, was a triumph of intelligent thinking - the more so because the designer Lucas Ossendrijver works separately from the brand's creative director, Alber Elbaz. But as the two took a bow, after a classic suit with an arresting pebbled surface had ended the show, it was clear that they had worked in sweet harmony.
The display of soft suits, tailored with ruching at the spine or down the pant legs, had the luxurious elegance of ease, as found in the Lanvin women's collections. An ultra-light raincoat with a fluid ripple down the front or short jackets in the softest silk looked like the ultimate upscale version of wash-'n'-wear fashion. Whimsical, battered straw hats, some exuding flowers, added that kooky romanticism for which Lanvin now stands.
The secret was in the work put into these apparently easy clothes. That meant not just fabric research into the light and soft, but also the proportion of a tiny collar, the detail of black pearl beads at the neck or even on sneaker boots. Denim shorts, from Lanvin's collaboration with Acne, introduced traditional sportswear.
But even the most formal elements seemed nonchalant, from a cummerbund knotted at the back to colors that would take a crushed velvet suit from green to gray. The collection epitomized that rare art of making complexity seem simple.
Lanvin has made the aesthetic link between the two sexes, and the show Sunday, with its advanced fabric treatments within a gentle comfort zone, was a triumph of intelligent thinking - the more so because the designer Lucas Ossendrijver works separately from the brand's creative director, Alber Elbaz. But as the two took a bow, after a classic suit with an arresting pebbled surface had ended the show, it was clear that they had worked in sweet harmony.
The display of soft suits, tailored with ruching at the spine or down the pant legs, had the luxurious elegance of ease, as found in the Lanvin women's collections. An ultra-light raincoat with a fluid ripple down the front or short jackets in the softest silk looked like the ultimate upscale version of wash-'n'-wear fashion. Whimsical, battered straw hats, some exuding flowers, added that kooky romanticism for which Lanvin now stands.
The secret was in the work put into these apparently easy clothes. That meant not just fabric research into the light and soft, but also the proportion of a tiny collar, the detail of black pearl beads at the neck or even on sneaker boots. Denim shorts, from Lanvin's collaboration with Acne, introduced traditional sportswear.
But even the most formal elements seemed nonchalant, from a cummerbund knotted at the back to colors that would take a crushed velvet suit from green to gray. The collection epitomized that rare art of making complexity seem simple.
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