Amy

Thanks!! It is good to hear some views back on the bits I write. next I hope to do the piece on photographers/models and how to work best together- when I get time! If you want any other topics or any personal advice, mail me:)

Ali
xxx

An other in the series of my modelling tips. It's hard to know where to pitch this as I guess there is a vast range of ppl on here.

This one contains some thoughts for working with a photographer and also advice for photographers working with models! A successful shoot is a symbiotic relationship between the two, both need each other and both can bring out the best, or the worst from the meet:)

First then, just to turn the tables, some words for photographers- haa!. For the raw beginner wanting to work with models, first learn your craft. Learn about photography, your equipment, the basics before you get near a model or she will walk or be doubled up laughing. If you are an amateur starting out, buy a good DSLR and the best lenses you can. Don't turn up with a pocket digcam tucked in your grubby baggy jeans. Bailey can do that, no one else can:) If you have to make do with some of the standard lenses that come with some DSLRs, get to know their limitations, such as bad fringing at large aperture with bright contrasts. So first learn all you can and practise good photography. Then read up on and start learning about some of the technicalities of shooting models. Lighting!!!!!!! The one most important feature when shooting a body or a face is lighting. This is an art in itself and learn how to light a model, how and where to use reflectors, remote flashes etc etc. Lighting is absolutely key.
Once you have understood the basics then the next issue is to realise that photographing a model has two parts to it. The first is the one just mentioned, the technicalities and the next is the direction and control of the shoot coupled with the ability to connect with the model and draw out of him/her what you want from the shoot. Some people are good at the technicalities but can never get to grips with the second at all ever! It is vital that the photographer starts out knowing what he/she (or the client) wants from the shoot and plans it before the shoot. The photographer then needs to actively direct the model to achieve the brief. Directing a model takes skill and experience. Some amateurs when presented with a beautiful model in front of them will jibber and mutter and freeze lol You need to be confident, at ease with beautiful models, at ease with bodies. A model will quickly sense if you are overawed or just pervy. You need to think why do you want to photograph models. If your reasons are to get close to and take some snaps of models, then you should go to some grubby small club and stay well away from any professional fashion model. If however you love art and fashion, love image and flow, love the human form and people for their intrinsic beauty and interest and want to capture stunning images to inspire and enthrall others, then welcome:)

So the role of the photographer is to connect with the model, tell her/him, what you are trying to achieve in the shoot, what you want the model to do. Be clear what type of shoot it is (see previous posts) so the model knows whether to stay really still or to experiment and move around. Some preliminaries- make sure the location has facilities for the model and some where to change, even if just a screen or a robe. Make her feel comfortable. Limit if you can who is on the set so there are few distractions. Talk to the model before hand. Then when you start, be firm and clear in your direction, don't be wet. Communicate all of the time, asking the model to move this, look like that, change a finger position etc etc and provide feedback all of the time. If she is a professional she will be reacting constantly to your words and changing her look and position and you will be taking frame after frame as she goes. A good model will work the shoot and give a photographer many different frames and he will be very happy! The shoot should a constant flow of talk and frames and have a buzz about it. No talk, no buzz then it's dead.

If you are not a beginner but a hardened pro photographer, then even if you have had a lousy day so far and your schedule is screwed and maybe your girlfriend has been too, by your assistant, don't take it out on a new model, stiff and sick with nerves in front of you. Be humane and help her out and make something good come out of the day.
To sum up, as a photographer, don't just take a model and stick her in front of a tree and expect her to grow and in silence take some shots and go home! Some ppl have sent me shots of their work (not from here) and to be honest, they suck- be inmaginative, be inventive, be creative. There are brilliant examples of excellent work not just in top magazines but tucked away in people's sites, I am sure some on here. Think a shoot through well in advance, get the technicalities right, work with the model, really really work with her, to draw out of the shoot, feelings, imagery, something that will capture the viewer and leave you with 15 out of 100 frames that are really good. Learn about post-processing. Learn that it will not fix all problems with the original shoot! Learn though how to either use post processing to tidy up a shot or how to use it to create something radically different.

Ok now the other way around!

Models- first of all if you are new to this------------- beware of who you get to photograph you. There are lots of ppl out there saying they can help you build a portfolio or do TFCD work, who really just want to perv on girls. Seriously, check out anyone you don't know very thoroughly, ask to see their previous work and for contacts of other models he has worked with etc. If you agree to do a shoot, agree before hand the type of shoot it will be, the location, the facilities there, clothes, make up, who else will be there, how long it will be and the terms of the work eg Model Release forms, payments, CDs etc etc. Make sure you know to what use and where, he will be using your shots. If all sounds ok then go along preferably with a friend and if when you get there, it doesn't look or seem right, just walk away. If it seems Ok then make sure he sticks to the agreed brief and doesn't get carried away and try and make you do the type of shoot you don't want. He is in charge of the shoot but you have the right to walk away at any time- always remember that. Sorry if that all seems a bit off putting but this is the real world to watch out for if you are starting out with SOME small time photographers.

Now stepping up a few levels and assuming you have a good professional photographer to work with, then here are my tips. LISTEN to him/her!!! Modelling is about really listening and understanding where he/she is coming from, what he is trying to get you to do, not just in physical poses etc but what is it in terms or emotions, imagery, concept, that he/she is wanting. Being a model is about acting, being incredibly flexible in look, knowing your body and face and the million things you can do with it. Be enthusiastic and keen with the photographer, be professional, do what he/she says, don't start trying to "hide your bad side" or "not look ugly" or any such thing. Do what is asked of you for it's is not your call but his, what angles and looks you make. You are not the prima dona for him/her to photograph, you are the puppet to do what he wants but make that puppet lively and so very full of life. Lose any inhibitions you might have, any worries about looking fat, bad, silly etc. Do what is asked and more and do it with skill and enthusiasm and build up the rapport with the photographer as the shoot goes. If you are asked to do something that you consider dangerous or way outside of the brief, just ask for a moment and have a quiet word to clear up any confusion, don't bottle and explode or breakdown in tears. Learn as you go from shoot to shoot something about the equipment, how to react to reflectors under your chin, flashes from the side, camera lenses looking at you from strange angles! Work a shoot hard, give it your all, be pleasant, listen and react, do as requested and at the end or at mid-review, take an interest in the frames as he/she reviews them on the PC and learn what you are doing wrong in the frames that will be discarded.

As the shoot progresses dont let an internal-external disconnect happen between you and the photogapher. What I mean is don't let the inner you wander and start to spin around thoughts such as "what must my leg look like like this maybe I can move it a bit without him noticing, oh god the client rep is frowning so badly at me, what does more mean, what kind of stupid direction is that, this dress is awfully see through, what if the vicar sees this magazine on mother's table back home and recognises me, well he always was a perv the old sod, oooh yes it is see through, stop staring like that Neville, poo no please nips, please dont do that right now please omg im going red, am I, quick think of the shopping list, bugger I didnt throw out that cheese in the flat, gosh I really need a pee...quick put on happy face he wants happy face." etc etc If you let that happen the pics will suck:) The inner you needs to be in the space where the photographer is and feeling the emotions, the sensations of the piece and then naturally the outer you will display this and be captured wonderfully in the frames.

At the end thank him/her and bond and make him/her feel happy. A photographer/client will rebook you if, you have delivered but also delivered in a professional and enjoyable way! Dont ever end up having a blazing row with a photocopier -- haaaaaaaaa spell check did that!!! going to leave that in lol -it should say photographer:) -- and pissing him/her off as he will spread a bad word about you. Always keep professional.

One last section- being around photographers. There will be many occasions if you are a successful model (or look hot and want to be!) that photographers will just want to take shots of you, off set, off the runway, either at events, or backstage or just out and about. You need to learn and have it as part of your normal behaviour, how to react when you know lenses are on you. Think "light-pose-move-pose". You need to move your body/face out to where the lens/light is. What I mean by that is not curl up your body or move your head father into the shade. Watch any good model and as they see someone about to take a shot of them, they move to a good position, albeit subtly, they pose, wait 1 sec then move then pose. We know that any good photographer will get many frames in one second so there is no need to hang around. It comes naturally after a while trust me:)

Sorry if this is saying the obvious to many people on here who do this day in day out as a living; just doing these to help new people to this and to provide some insight to others who are not normally in this field.

There are I'm sure many models starting out and photographers on here that could both gain experience by getting toether so do use this site and others like it to make it happen and learn the practical way.

Any comments, parts you would like me to amplify on, anything that ppl disagree with?

Photographers out there- what are your major gripes about models you have worked with?

Alicia
xxx

This needs to be posted anywhere and everywhere 15 - 18 year old girls are! Correct me if I'm wrong, but most girls on runways at Milan/LA start between that age & so if they have access to this advice perhaps they can understand the reality of modelling. I think also coming from a model it will mean so much more to them.

It is very insightful how you say modelling is about business. Speak to any agent owner and it is intriguing how they talk about 'their girls' and how much they earn from 'this girl' and 'that girl'. It really is business and sometimes I think there should be an industry rule that puts an age bracket say 18 years of age so you don't see 15 year olds on the runway.

Thanks Helen:) Age is a tricky one. Some models at 15 are really mentally and to some extent physically more like 18 while others I know at 18 are more like 15 lol! Certainly some enter modelling with all kinds of fairy tale notions but soon have their feet nailed to the ground, some cope well some dont, some get and need great support from family and friends and some dont. The problem about setting age limits is the same as setting BMI limits, it is too crude a bar.

Agencies vary in how much they mentor and explain the inner workings of the business but most of the top ones are not too bad. At the end of the day they want to earn money. People outside of the fashion world can forget that it is a business, a fierce business and is not just there for artistic and entertainment pleasure. For those working as a living as designers, models, buyers, you will know that profit and loss are high on the agenda! The best agencies are the ones who like any employer, realise that to get the most money, they need to invest time and money and care into their people. Generally I have been treated wonderfully.

Alicia
xxx

Another snippet prompted by a friend's shoot yesterday..

Pool Shoots

Two types, first easy-lie/stand around the side, second hard -in the water.
The major factors to be prepared for are, air temperature, water temperature, length of shoot, facilities on site.

Be very clear when sent on a shoot which has a pool element to it, whether you will be required to be in the water. Ok obvious you may say but not always! Either through a casting session/briefing or by good discussion, you should know before you arrive if you are having to get wet! A pool side shoot is very much like any other but if you are going to be required to go in you need to ensure you are mentally and physically prepared and you know what is required of you!

Once water is involved so many factors have to be thought through.. From the makeup/stylist point of view, it a like moving to another planet and looks/hair have to be really thought through and the products used be chosen with experience and skill. From a models point of view, 3 things are critical to know, the water temperature, what is required (float, dive, swim etc) and the likely length of the shoot, immersion time. Any sensible production will have cast models before hand so they know the capabilities... Not always the case though. Some things in modelling one can maybe get away with but, dance movements, swimming capabilities, fears with heights/animals etc, will be hard to mask.

If you do have to be in the pool, it can be very demanding. Some shoots will be relatively easy, with just standing there or floating but others can involve diving or underwater work and due to the nature of shoots, can go on and on. If the water temperature is cold, one slowly freezes up and cannot function!

My tips are to make sure you know what is going to be involved with a pool shoot, by all means stretch yourself, but don't take on an assignment that is way beyond your capabilities as you will just end up looking a fool and word will get around that you are a waste of time. Learn how to dive in elegantly and splash free, learn how to swim underwater, learn how to come up and open your eyes cleanly and smile and not look like a drowned rat. Learn how to swim breast stroke with a hat on. Learn how to fast crawl with your head down in the water. Learn how to walk around a pool with high heels on and not slip! Learn how to walk in a shallow pool and not look like a laboured hippo. Learn how to look serene even when you are immensely tired and cold. Eat well long before you do the shoot and lay off alcohol until out of the water or you will lose more body heat. In hot pools, don't drink either as you may overheat! Someone I know just spent 6 hours in and out of a not very warm pool on a shoot and it was very demanding and only as she is very fit and water capable, did she get through it.

Generally, it helps as a model to be good at dancing and swimming and it is a lovely way to help keep fit:)

Alicia
xxx

A person I know, who clearly has had model potential for the past 2 years, yet has not had the self belief in herself, despite me telling her so many times and no doubt others too, that she has the build and the looks to make it, has finally woken up. She went for a photoshoot in Miami, the agent contacted a few NYC agencies and a week later she was flown all expenses paid to NYC, and is now since Monday in a model flat there and signed to an agency:)

If you think you have what is takes to be a good fashion model, do get yourself checked out by someone who really really knows this business and is going to be straight with you and not con you, not say you have it when you dont, yet take your money. The vast majority of people dont have the body/look that is required for a fashion model in a top agency. Dont though sit for years wondering but not doing anything about it and not testing out whether you have what it takes. Most will be disappointed but others, in just weeks will have their lives transformed. Dont dream, explore.

Alicia
x

Last week someone I was working alongside with on a shoot, blew it. Although some part of modelling is about acting, portraying so much in a frame, in a show, one cannot bring out what doesn't exist within. We had all tried really hard to be supportive to her but after so much time of being a pain off and on set, this new girl's thin veneer was seen through pretty quickly as she tried and failed to bring style, grace, team work, sensuality and sensitivity to the shoot yet again. She then blamed everyone but herself on the failure and was particularly nasty. It caused much upset for everyone as well as her.

No one is perfect, far far from it, many top models have bad skin and have weakness but they are genuinely lovely people through and through. Modelling is not just about face and figure, it goes deeper.....

Sarah (Doukas) said two things recently:

"Models are born, not made to some extent. Great models like great people share extraordinary personal qualities that make them popular and memorable" (yes- K that is you!!! )

"The world's greatest models are very beautiful for sure but they also possess style, are well read, intelligent, confident and unashamedly ambitious and hard working"

So true, so very true of the ones I know.

There is no need to be nasty in this world, no matter what job you are in.

Alicia
xxx

Alicia, that's a really good story... not only does being a gracious and genuine person show through in photos, I'd imagine it would also come back to you by way of having people want to work with you again, and in people supporting you so that you do well. And you're right, that goes for pretty much any job, not just modelling! :)

Another part in this series:)


International Modelling

Should be organised through through your agency, either with the overseas client or via the agency's overseas office/partner agency with the client. They should sort out most of the arrangements and help with any permits needed. Don't take anything for granted though and check everything.

The agency will not normally pay for your travel (unless it is a large fashion week extravaganza or similar) but the Client will normally. Make sure you know who is going to pay for what.

If the country you are going to is new to you, prepare well, don't be clueless.

Travelling
-get plenty of sleep before hand!
-get the local currency. Euros good for all of europe EXCEPT the UK :)
-don't put anything really vital in the hold. Put copious labels on your hold baggage and labels/cards inside with contact details. A lot of baggage is getting lost nowadays
-Learn the very basics of the language!!! Really it is important!
-learn how they meet and greet, get used to a lot of cheek kissing in Europe and know how to do it
-learn about the city and the transport. In Paris know the difference between the RER and the metro- tickets are good for both. In NYC, London and Paris the subway/tube/metro RER systems are really good, learn the lines and ways to get around. Milan is not quite so good,
-make sure your phone will work in that country. Not so much of a prob now but an old EU phone may not work in the states
-remember the states have a different voltage and a simple plug adaptor wont help. EU hair straighteners will be cold when used in te US unless dual voltage
-know a bit about the airport you will be landing at and if you are not going to be met, how to get to your hotel, if you arrive late, get a taxi. NYC has at least 3 major airports, London 4, Paris 2, Milan 2 and depending which flight/airline and long/short haul you can end up at anyone. Some of them are way out of the city.
-make sure all of your paper work is in order and your passport has at least 6 months to run ( and you have any visas that are required)
-travel in ordinary clothes, don't attract attention
-make sure you have in country telephone numbers and if your agency has an office there, that you check in with them.
-have your supposed itinerary with you handy
-when you arrive, if you meet ppl, don't go drinking too much that first night!

fashion shows/weeks- nightmare
-make sure you get fully briefed on where you are meant to be when- sounds simple but it isn't. Apart from the main show, there are appointments to make for meetings, fittings and rehearsals. Oh and events and parties and just random happenings. So it can turn into a scheduling nightmare. People don't turn up on time, most things go late, times change!!
-in all of this look after your safety first. Make sure you know how to get around the city. Fashion weeks are always spread ALL over the place. NY, London, Paris etc are all in many many split venues and that's just for the shows, other places need to be got to for meetings and fittings. Find out where they are on a map in case you have to get there yourself. On the days you should have cars to whisk (or crawl!) from one place to the other, show wise, but outside of that sometimes you will have to find your own way to some new place in the dark for a fitting. If you are at all unsure about the public transport- get a taxi. Leave messages with ppl where you are and where you are going. Be street savvy Each city has its not so good areas, get to know where they are and avoid them if you can or take precautions.
-get a subway (NY), tube (London), Metro (Paris) pass to give yourself the flexibility to get around yourself. In Paris write the card number on the pouch thing and keep it safe so you can get a replacement if it gets lost of just stops working (as happens!)
-get sleep when ever you can.
-don't drink too much. If it's hot drink lots and lots of water
-always eat in the morning before a show
-eating can become a nightmare with snatched nibbles throughout the day, make sure you eat properly and not just the stuff on trays that keeps shooting past. If there isn't any- ask/buy fruit
-guard your schedule and contact numbers, your fone and pass badges with your life
-be prepared for you face and hair to be worked like never before
-slip out to little bars and coffee shops with friends whenever you can:)
-on the day(s) keep track of time, how its going, when your next move has to be, who is looking after you and will take you to the cars,
-don't panic!
-remember that these shows are the culmination of many months work and are so very important to the designer. It may just be an exciting laugh to you but it is deadly serious to the client. Give him/her your best:) if you are doing many shows, don't let your performance become blase and worn - it shows
-at official events/after show parties stay cool and learn who is who- network
-be prepared for ppl in Italy to get very emotive and expressive:)
-accept the goodies you may get with a smile and a kiss:)
-if in NYC have a look up 5th and Maddison, in Paris the Avenue Montaigne and in London, Sloane Street. have your comp card or ID with you:) In Milan, if you get invited to La Scala for a performance go!

So in summary, do your homework, think first of all about bring organised and prepared and check all of the paper work. When you are there, be bright, professional, look after your personal safety and have an amazing time:)

Alicia
xx

Fantastic advice as always - "always eat in the morning before a show", very sensible especially for impressionable young things who may not know how to treat their bodies in the healthiest ways.