Post by Coll

Hi boys & girls, wondered if anyone could give me the heads up on how to best tackle the challenges of persuing a career in modeling as a male. So far I've found there are limited opportunities & local competitions to assist me in gaining the experience. Can anyone suggest any they may know of.

I find the best way to get out there is to go to open calls for agencies and try to get signed. Even if you don't, if you see them in person, more often than not if you ask, they will tell you why. If you're look isn't for them, they will hopefully point you in the direction of an agency whose look you do suit. :)

Also, test shooting with photographers is often a beneficial experience :)

Hope this helps! :)

That is helpful. I'll keep trying & see what becomes of it. Thanks.

Modelling Advice Oct 09 -Fashion Weeks and also Model Finances


As SS09 works towards its manic close, so some updates on my modelling advice, written over the past weeks in little sections in different countries, before I take a break from this all for some days


Fashion Shows- a model's perspective

This round of SS09 is not radically different from previous NYC/LFW/MFW/PFW. Despite the usual hyperbole of new health checks/doctors certificates, larger bodies for the runway, business was as usual lol In NYC the CFDA recommendations were just that and there were no special checks and for LFW they sensibly caved in on the doctors certificates (please give us all some privacy and common sense!) and again no new checks. Interesting to see the CFDA in Bryant having displays on healthy eating and living - a PC token gesture. Seriously, the way to take care of us models is far more subtle yet basic than all of the rubbish you see being dished out to placate baying screamers about how the fashion industry kills models and causes EDs, for life is far more complex that this. See some of my other posts.

So NYC was good, mixed weather, venues much the same, traffic ok, PETA less, some shows still very late knocking schedules, seeing old and new faces, some old ones chubbier than last year and a few seriously too large now for this, while a few on the too thin side but most just the same super slim model size that is and has always been in demand for the round of shows-no change this year. Some falls (mentioning no names), some nipple slips and some crashes but no huge dramas that I saw.

Yes you can be an unknown discovery at 15 and be on the major runway shows when 16 as was proved this year and she has quite an amazing build! Eastern Europeans dominating the scene even more this year and a seemingly never ending supply of long lean thin thighed great new runway models from that gene pool waiting in the wings. Never has fashion modelling been so competitive and any "standard" US, UK AUS girl out there hoping to be a runway fashion model for the big names, to get a look in now, is rare. You need the genes...(how controversial is that lol)

LFW was fun and in some ways, quaint in some ways exciting and after hours hilarious and the various venues and transport worked. Model transport varied from tiny SMART car to a Maserati ! Naomi's charity event is such a good example of how fun can be had but also money from this obscenely rich industry (in parts), can be good to better use that the latest impossible to wear shoe design. (Dont think that all models are obsessed with fashion, some are many are not and will dash from one show to another hardly caring what and who. If the deal is to be paid in trade though then yes eyes and hands are on the alert!!)

Which neatly brings me on to MFW where a certain designer should be taken to court for endangering lives and the carnage, though comical to some was really painful to others:( Also a classic double nipple slip from AS but she can carry off anything with style:) MFW, times of stress and arm waving and the kind of frenetic madness that only Italy has. Milan though is beautiful in some of its central parts and they like Paris breathe fashion more than London and NYC.

PFW- sheer madness. Who would ever dream up so many venues, so many shows, so many logistical and transport nightmares! Seriously, this, at the end of the round is THE killer. The great clash broke out some weeks ago about next years world schedules with Milan and Paris wanting to squeeze LFW and a compromise has now been reached but shows the awesome power of the French fashion machine. Still more to go.. The best times..:)


This is another piece of modelling advice- NEVER speak badly of another model or spread gossip!

Trends this year, modelling wise... even more cameras than ever backstage. It is getting such a circus and there can be a camera in your face while doing anything! It really is getting out of hand at some moments. See through tops big this year so if you are worried about your boobs being shown to the whole world, dont be a model:) Some dresses and shoes that are impossible to walk in- practice this winter for next season by walking in a bin liner with 8 inch heels on lol

Some now general fashion week advice, may have said some of this before but it is so important.

Know your schedule inside out. Take back up copies of it.
Stay in touch- read messages take calls as schedules change
If you haven't been to the country before, learn about the city and the transport and language
Make sure all of your travel arrangements/visas are all sorted
Guard your fone with your life, have important numbers copied down elsewhere
Make sure you know your driver(s) numbers and cars
Ring your driver before lurching out if you can
Be nice to photographers when off show, give them some time
Look smart and act well ALL of the time, the world is watching
Backstage be organised and helpful with everyone trying to get you ready. Don't spill over with your stuff into someone elses patch, it usually really crowded backstage
Get any sleep you can even cap naps as sleep deprivation can really set in
Keep well hydrated and force yourself to eat decently even though you may be dashing around
Be sociable:)
Don't lose your passes
Know what the key designers look like, you are working for
Have a map of the city and subway/metro/tube map on you
have low key minimalistic inter show clothes with just one large shoulder bag
Don't run
Don't over drink at nights, it's a long haul and some very early starts
Network be seen, make an impression
and remember that you have ony one shot at it as you walk out- no retakes!! lol
Fashion weeks for models can be much more than just the shows, there can be many go sees and general meets and it can be a very busy time with also off events and parties both official and just wild:) Work it!!!!!

Alicia, you must be psychic - I was only just thinking a few hours ago that it was about time you popped back up and posted some more advice! :) What a great read about all the different fashion weeks... and as usual great tips for burgeoning models.

Model Earnings and Finances

Ok some advice from me on this as there seems to be many myths around this.
Generally speaking, fashion modelling is not something that can sustain a good life. Yes there are some models worth over 20M and quite a number over 10M but there are also many models not making ends meet at all.

Wanting to be a model to be rich, is the wrong reason to be modelling.
You need to think of yourself as --yourself, you are effectively self employed (In France legally it is a little different but the principle holds) and you have expenses. There will be the normal expenses of living but also there will be modelling expenses. An agency is not there to pay all your travel promotional and other costs. The agency is your helper as a self employed entity, to get work. You will quite often in many agencies have to pay for your travel, cards, admin and much more. These modelling expenses are there whether you get work or not. If you are going to many castings/go sees yet don't bag any work, you are going to go under if modelling is your only income.

The amount a model gets paid is determined by many factors the two primary ones being

The type of work (more later)

Your track record/how in demand you are.
Type of work- generally the money goes from high to low in this order
Exclusive campaigns
general advertisement/commercial work
Catalogue
Runway
Editorials

but swap the order of some of those depending on circumstance.

It is quite common for an unknown model who works a lot for catalogues to have more money at the end of a year than a fashion model you may recognise and has been on the NYC and Milan runways.
Being in shows in NYFW/LFW/MFW/PFW does not mean you are going to be rich. Some of these shows DO NOT PAY ANY MONEY! Some will instead pay in trade or you can even do a show with nothing. If you are however in the Nat P league, you will come away from something like SS09 with a hefty sum simply as she is so in demand, so very very good at what she does, does so many shows and opens and closes many.

Having an editorial or even a cover, even in major magazine such as Vogue, does not necessarily pay much at all. Again depends on who you are but generally eds are seen as good show cases for us and as such the mag is in some senses "doing you a favour" by featuring you. It is a privilege. So again dont think that model x must be rolling in it simply as she has an ed in one of the major publication.

When you do get an assignment, a fee is normally agreed between the agency and the client. The amount you actually get, will normally be that minus the agencies commission (say about 20percent) minus any deductions the agency may apply to claim back monies they have spent on your behalf. In some circumstances, for a new model, the net sum can zero! (If you have a Mother Agency, the 20 is usually split say 10 for the mother and 10 for the local agency) For example, if a young and not very clued up model goes with an agency and all is smiles and they fly you to NYC and put you up and do portfolio shoots and comp cards and ring round many people etc etc. the model can find out of her first pay check, much of those costs and clawed back. Beware -READ anything you sign and ask and ask again about who is paying for what. There are some agencies that will spend lots of money on you and not want it back, there are some that will claw back ever penny and there are many in between. ALWAYS find out your position from the very start.

Keep receipts!!!!!! Part of being a model means being an accountant. If you cant do it get a relation of friend or if you are rich enough, an accountant to keep your books. You MUST keep track of all of your incomings and outgoings. I cant stress this enough. You need to know what monies you owe to whom, what your expenses were and be able to manage your cash flow from week to week. Some new models start out all starry eyed but when the rent keeps coming and the travel expenses pile up but no income comes in, it all ends in tears. Generally there is no assured income from modelling. If you get campaigns and contracts like with VS, yes but generally a model has little idea when and how much her next chunk of income will be.
Know your tax position. Know to which countries and when and how and how much, your tax

So when I am asked, "how much to models get paid", I find that unless I have an hour to explain, I usually avoid the question!!!!!
Some extremely general guidelines are that as a newish good model, you might expect 1200-2500EU for a days proper shoot. Rates tho really vary dramatically depending on the type of client, type of shoot, length of time, whether any semi/nudity involved etc etc. Although that amount of money may seem a lot to some, remember that if you don't get any other work for the month, that is it! If you are on the top board, you get much more than that....


Remember there are many forms of modelling and you dont have to be long and lean necessarily, unless you want to do top runway modelling in which case sorry you just have to be that despite what ppl may say, it just not going to change!!

I may have painted a too dark picture but I really want would be models to know what to watch out for and that generally the path is not paved of gold unless you are talented AND lucky.

The flip side to all this is that if you are good and you work at it and are in the right place at the right time with the right agencies, you can have a wonderful time, travel a great deal and end up not too poor:)
If you want to be a model, read my earlier posts. Also always have a Plan B in life

xx

PS some words on some of the "Japan" deals. Some agencies will send models to Japan for a while with the lure of $10000 or more. Such deals can be good but as with all of modelling read the small print very carefully and talk with others who have done or are doing the same deal. Make sure you know who is ultimately paying for what, what deductions will come off any earnings, under what conditions they can send you home, (lack of take up, skin, weight, drink, rudeness etc etc- it does happen).

Very interesting read...I only wish someone would post something similar for photographers lol

David

yes that WOULD be interesting:)

from those I work with, the qualities seem to be a combination of technical skill, creative genius, focus (excuse the pun lol), genuine love of women, drink and ability to communcate with the model with authority yet appreciating the symbiotic relationship between model and photographer:)

xx