Between the building’s corporate lobby and Hutong’s ambient interior, there’s a world of difference. Step into Hutong and it’s dark, woody and moodily lit by rows of fringed oriental lanterns. The windows looking out across Hong Kong’s neon-advertising lit skyscrapers slope inwards, and, when splashed with rain, give you the feeling that you might have stepped into the Tyrell Corporation building in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner. That panoramic view is a major drawcard of Hutong. The food is another. Hutong’s food is rich in the best of ways. Lamb ribs Hutong style are melt-in-the-mouth soft in the middle yet delightfully crispy on top. Cod, buried under a mound of surprisingly delicious fried bean curd, is potentially the best I’ve ever tasted. Based on traditional Northern Chinese food with a contemporary twist, the menu is extensive – especially where seafood is concerned. Hutong’s drink list is equally long so expect to be choosing for a while from signature cocktails and geographically diverse wine offerings. The food may be exceptional but where Hutong really wins out is in the aforementioned ambiance and view. As with many of Hong Kong’s best dining establishments it’s not just about the meal but about the experience. Whether you watch the laser-light display across Hong Kong island from 28 floors up, or simply soak in the mix of traditional authenticity and contemporary cool; with traditional Chinese style carved wooden benches and cushions, it’s a place where you literally take off your shoes and enjoy the ride. Hutong can be found at 1 Peking Road, Hong Kong.