After seeing Friday night's L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF) show, I felt a bit challenged on how to begin this article. Do I mention my delights, my disappointments, or perhaps common themes that I duly noted amongst the nine collections presented. With almost 100 exits to take into consideration, I thought, I should just be ruthlessly honest with myself and say what I feel is err... appropriate. For the most part I was indifferent; my expected disappointment was well matched (we're in Melbourne, not Paris), but I was also pleasantly surprised. I know I'm not as knowledgeable in women's fashion as some of you; hence the indifference. But luckily being a men's fashion Nazi does translate – we're saved! Anyway here are the verdicts:
Friedrich Gray - Photos by Wayne Wong
Friedrich Gray:
It was a precursor to the night's frequent return to the hippy chic, with models in sheer fabrics, long scarves and a surprising hybrid of the tuxedo legging pant. And of course black; lots of it.
Shakuhachi:
Shakuhachi gave an interesting twist to the yellow trend, using instead a more mustard hue to their colour pallet. The collection became more interesting with pieces made out of brown suede with black panels and fabric which appeared to be made from painted velvet. Although, the pebble print incorporated into some of their pieces such as the dress was reminiscent of Jil Sander from the most recent men’s wear collection.
Kate Hurst:
Using poet bowed blouses, sweetheart shaped busts on dresses and long figure hugging dresses in dark purple floral, blacks, shades of magenta, Kate Hurt’s collection gave a darker twist to a 50’s and 70’s inspired collection.
Leopold:
Leopold gave a disappointing performance channelling too many collections at the same time. Their first look with leather jacket, messy hair, and glasses looked like a carbon copy of the recent Gucci collection but in black. The heavy work boot was a direct rip off of Dior Homme's collection two seasons ago. And a hint of Karl Laggerfeld with the fingerless gloves and a few shawl neck knits left me with my head shaking.
Su:
Su had plenty of playful dresses to show, in fabrics of metallic silver, crimson velvet with plenty of frills to go around. Also there was a very structured silver wrap dress, dresses with leather panels around the bust and a long black dress with a dangerously low neck line.
Alpha 60:
As one of Melbourne’s more popular labels, Alpha 60 represents the city well with innovative use of black. The black came in frills, checks, prints, leather, and what looked suspiciously like wax wash denim. The first two looks created a strong introduction, especially the little black dress with the structured jacket.
TV:
T.V. produced a conspicuous effort with their collection which was somewhat eclectic, leaving the audience pondering where the inspiration was sourced from. Cat-suits, epaulets, dark blue silk brocade fabrics, power blue, gold dressed and pant and bat wings sure raised a few questions for me at least. The murmuring grew with a dark veil covering the model’s head in the last exit. Political or not, it certainly got everyone’s attention and confusion.
Material Boy:
The title of the collection was ABODIGITAL. It took a while to register with me, but I think I saw more digital and less err Abo...riginal? The models came out wearing black stockings over their heads and only a couple of times came out with Aboriginal artwork printed centrally on to t-shirts which seemed to be the only indigenous reference I could see. I was waiting for a "sorry" t-shirt at the end, but alas, there was none. Also there was the predictable use of the drop-crotch pants which came in an ankle length and overalls version.
Romance was born:
It was the ultimate back-to-basics concept when Romance Was Born presented their Garden of Eden collection. A large apple was placed in the middle of the catwalk and as the interpretive dancer crawled out, the audience were left wondering if it was a worm or a snake. Models came out in dresses made out of prints, patchwork and printed stockings in pink and other pale shades, heavily detailed kints, a "bed dress" and a gypsy inspired dress with a Central Asian head piece. A very strong anti-littering message with the last dress made out of plastic bags. By the way, it was a snake.
imadeyoucool is a resident Fashioniser and writer taking on some coverage of both menswear and womenswear at LMFF. All photos by Fashionising member and fabulous photographer Wayne Wong.
Written: 9th March 2008 at 19.56
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