Written by GODandShopping
Melbourne's so called 'incandescent' labels combined with a theatrical (or was it interpretive) runway show as the finale for Melbourne Spring Fashion Week's official parades. The show seemed to bring the cream of the crop of Melbourne's fashion community who created a tense atmosphere of great expectations for the featuring labels. For the most part these expectations were met, but also so were the anticipated duds.

The show was spearheaded by Material by Product showcasing some amazing garments. The label experimented with different draping styles with jackets and dresses combined with patterns of dots and leaf motifs. The garments themselves could be considered as statement pieces but then translated to something more wearable such as the white jacket made out of what seemed to be paper thin leather. Perhaps it may not have been as groundbreaking as other labels such as Comme Des Garcons but it still gets the tick of approval by some of Melbourne's top retailers.
Frisoni Finetti followed suit. Personally I'm not a great fan of this label, and tonight I was proven again why. I definitely know it's not just me, but I seem to be compelled to play spot the difference. Ann Demeulemeester anyone? Usually their "interpretations" such as their attempt at Raf Simons sandals or the Junya Watanabe crushed wool vest would fly under the radar for most people. But then again most people don’t visit Diabro.net ever day. And no, the addition of the bright blue did not distract me from what you were trying to conceal.
Gail Sorronda's collection seemingly aimed for something more aspirational than what we normally would see. Perhaps it was an attempt at Haute Couture? Perhaps it was a hybrid. But whatever it was it had beautiful results. The clothes came strictly in black and white (humm… interesting) but the cuts weren’t anything revolutionary. Although the designs did creatively utilize sheer fabrics, pleats and ruffles.
Leopold played around with pop colours this time which luckily for them, made it difficult to pinpoint who they copied. That may sound cruel but it's not as bad as their bastardization of Gucci earlier this year. Again nothing revolutionary, and that goes for the white tuxedo jacket with the black lapels. There was really nothing much to see, therefore to report on except that the pieces were wearable?
Dhini also presented a monochromatic collection that night. Again it followed suit of the playful use of sheer fabrics, pleats and ruffles. It was extremely feminine and contemporary. Although there were some pieces that may have been a little out of place such as the Rei Kuwakubo-esque drop-crotch pant and deconstructed Tuxedo jacket/vest/stubbie holder or whatever it was.
James Cameron had a fairly good running that night. They usually offer fine tailoring with good quality fabrics such as Australian wool and Japanese selvedge denim. Their collection tonight combined their infamous tailoring with wearable colours and quirky yet subtle details. Overall the collection was satisfying although they may have recycled the jumpsuit from their Sydney show and the brown leather jacket looked suspiciously like a Balenciaga.
Jessie Hill finished the night off with more… you guessed it, sheer fabric, pleats and frills. This time they also added prints and lace. Hurrah! Again it was monochromatic feminine and also a little bit sexy. But then they had to just ruin it with a models coming out in a conga line with maracas and a "I SO don't want to be here look" on their faces.
Written: 15th September 2008 at 22.00
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