Gender. But the way we like it?

There’s a problem facing autumn / fall and 2013′s fashions, at least there is to my mind. Take a look at the closing collections of this year and the opening collections of the next one and you’ll see one theme dominate: androgynous fashion. While you can follow that link for further insight, what’s ahead is not the sapphic and questionable-gender androgyny of year’s past, but instead a softer fusion between men’s and womenswear. Soft, but still not feminine. Soft, but still not androgyny of Helmut Newton appeal. This change of the silhouette but not of the gender should come as no surprise to those who have followed spring’s fashions – loose tailoring has transitioned to women’s fashion this season.

But do we actually like it?

Nadja Bender vogue paris june 2012

Click the thumbnails for full pictures:
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012
Nadja Bender: Vogue Paris June / July 2012

Generally speaking, sapphic androgyny always gets our attention. Even those who hate it can’t help but notice it. But it undoubtedly has its fans, and plenty of women have bridged the gender divide as far as tailoring is concerned.

It’s hard to look at the blockier, more masculine, silhouettes that Vogue ParisLignes de Force touches on and see a future for the style however. Sure, there’s a push for the style to ‘take off’ from the top of the fashion industry, but as far as fashion trends go it’s hard to imagine women queueing up to in order to wear the style themselves.

And it’s not the androgyny that’s the problem, but the silhouette. Sapphic androgyny depends upon tailored pieces that still flatter the female figure, this modern take does not. In fact, it often does anything but flatter.

The season hasn’t yet  arrived, and you won’t see the concept of soft androgyny wholly explored until 2012 draws to a close, but Vogue Paris’ June / July 2012 photo shoot certainly gives a taste of what is to come. So do you actually like it?

Share some style:

Want to keep up with fashion?

Once a week, we send out an update with the latest fashion trends, styles and collections.
Get yours direct in your inbox and keep ahead of fashion.

Our newsletter is spam free and your email address will never be shared or sold.
Author

Written by .

He was 5 when his teacher wrote on his report card “Daniel can’t sit still.” Taking it as a compliment, he’s been on the go ever since. Having flown over 590,000 kilometres in a single year (2012), he’s done much to push the boundaries of a fashioniser, always looking to fold one extra Tom Ford suit into his set of Samsonite cases and for one extra occasion to tie a tie for. As much an editor-at-large as he is Fashionising.com’s Editor-in-chief, when he's not travelling to all the fashion weeks his passports will allow him to, Daniel works on guiding this publication’s editorial and trend views. He is one of Fashionising.com’s co-founders.

He can be followed on Facebook and on Instagram.