There’s a problem facing autumn / fall and 2013’s fashions, at least there is to my mind. Take a look at the closing collections of this year and the opening collections of the next one and you’ll see one theme dominate: androgynous fashion. While you can follow that link for further insight, what’s ahead is not the sapphic and questionable-gender androgyny of year’s past, but instead a softer fusion between men’s and womenswear. Soft, but still not feminine. Soft, but still not androgyny of Helmut Newton appeal. This change of the silhouette but not of the gender should come as no surprise to those who have followed spring’s fashions – loose tailoring has transitioned to women’s fashion this season.
But do we actually like it?
Generally speaking, sapphic androgyny always gets our attention. Even those who hate it can’t help but notice it. But it undoubtedly has its fans, and plenty of women have bridged the gender divide as far as tailoring is concerned.
It’s hard to look at the blockier, more masculine, silhouettes that Vogue Paris‘ Lignes de Force touches on and see a future for the style however. Sure, there’s a push for the style to ‘take off’ from the top of the fashion industry, but as far as fashion trends go it’s hard to imagine women queueing up to in order to wear the style themselves.
And it’s not the androgyny that’s the problem, but the silhouette. Sapphic androgyny depends upon tailored pieces that still flatter the female figure, this modern take does not. In fact, it often does anything but flatter.
The season hasn’t yet arrived, and you won’t see the concept of soft androgyny wholly explored until 2012 draws to a close, but Vogue Paris’ June / July 2012 photo shoot certainly gives a taste of what is to come. So do you actually like it?