When a designer is forced to contradict his own design principles, that’s when you know the runway collection is going to be a knockout. Nicolas Ghesquiere has always been about discovering and defining the female body, but in Balenciaga Resort 2012, he seems to have surprised himself.
The collection manoeuvres the female body with a new silhouette; loose, longer, voluminous and less muted. The fabrics are decisive and bold, with silk, taffeta, jersey and leather assisting in a boxy-like figure. Longer than usual tops overlapping A-line skirts keep the look relaxed, and the slouchy dresses with low-lying waists draw inspiration for the ’20s.
Despite the rigid shapes, there’s an element of delicate refinement in the oriental prints. The incompatible colours give every piece in the collection their own identity, whether it’s the bat sleeve top or balloon shorts.
Interestingly, it still echoes spring 2011 trends as far as accessories are concerned, as seen with the subdued visibility of leather and metal jewellery.
View the full collection at the gallery above.