Burberry Prorsum men’s A/W ’11

Update: We’ve just added the official runway video to the article, to view it click through to the full article.

With military marching away into the distance, Christopher Bailey has decided on a change of direction. And that change of direction, as today’s Milan fashion week showing attested to, means a change of silhouette. Gone is the belted-in strictness and form-fitting military tailoring. For fall 2011 Bailey introduced structural forms, drop shoulders and high funnel necks – first in buffalo checks and plaids, then giving way to very bright, very vintage 60s looking peacoats and duffles.

Fur also had its moment in the spotlight. While a fur-lined collar can be perfect for the crisp European winter, not many a male will venture into Burberry‘s full mink coat territory, though that said this particular version was patch-worked giving it a roughness rather than a look too ostentatious. Suiting and separates were similarly relaxed,
like the outerwear, though not very themed and leaning to the basic side.

While many will miss the tight military forms of Burberry Prorsum’s seasons past, it’s an inevitability of fashion that things must change. And while the autumn / fall 2011 collection is not without a few of those elements carrying over (some fitted double-breasted coats, sans belts; a brushed wool take on last season’s aviator, but with duffle toggles) there is a kind of refreshing effortlessness to the direction Bailey has headed in. We just look forward to seeing how it progresses.