Carlos Miele: voluminous

The lights fade in gently, revealing a shilouette at the end of the catwalk clad, obviously, in pants and a cape. As the lights enhance to offer more, it’s clear that the cape is fur and that you want to be anything but a furry animal as the fall 2011 season nears.

While the cuts, like each model’s hair which is pulled back into a braided pony tail, seem simple, their cloth is not. This is a collection of patterns galore – vertical stripes sitting over wide leg pants, winter prints applied to much of the collection, and gold cloth mottled with silver. Even the most simple tonality provides contrast with white jumpsuits accented with waist cinching red belts.

Just as simple does not mean this is a collection made up of plain cloth, so too does it not mean that it’s minimalist. Anything but. Pleated wide leg trousers, that I could probably fit in to, along with the model are presented in velvet greens, others in printed silks.

So much about Carlos Miele‘s autumn / winter 2011 collection is voluminous. The furs big, figure hugging gowns only do so around the torse and below the waist provide plenty of flow, their slanted cut and pleating giving the hem movement with each step the model takes. The slanted cuts on the longer pieces exceed those of the shorter – these are detailed with a split, while the gowns have their spit filled with what looks to be tulle on some dresses and ruffles on others. Sometimes that tulle is layered under the dresses, sometimes on top and where that occurs the best models flick it, as such professionals are prone to do, creating fierce, eye catching movement. The longer the dress, it seems, the more sumptuous the detail.

Like other designers this season there’s are the odd single shouldered pieces, but having had that trend reach the lowest rungs of the high street it feels like a moment too soon for fashionisers to reinvest. Instead it’s the ever-spring shoulderless pieces that provide the stronger look for Miele.

To see all the pictures from Carlos Miele’s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 collection, click on the thumbnails below.