With the inside of the temporary Lincoln Park tents warming up but it clearly no warmer outside (and a good thing too, lest the ice bar melt), the first afternoon of the fall / winter 2011 New York fashion week showings kicked off with an infusion of menswear. Opening with a decided beat and a musical overtone that sat somewhere between the sound of a xylophone and raindrops, it was label Duckie Brown that gave us the first glimpse of an American collection’s offering for the next cold season of the year.
And the collection is an interpretation of the season not to dissimilar to what we experience at both the recent men’s Milan and Paris showings. There’s a new, relaxed silhouette on-trend for men, and having long leaned towards it, Duckie Brown’s newest offering shows no signs of shying away from it.
That relaxed silhouette, like so many other collections for the season, remains interpreted through the collection’s trouser offering. Playing to the relaxed, its trousers are tailored with pleats, loose legs and a low crotch line. These are, however, to the extreme. Much more extreme then most of what we’ve seen to date and much closer to the cut of zoot suit than what most men will be comfortable wearing.
The collection’s sports coats are a different story though. Much closer to the autumn / fall 2011 relaxed trend, they’re cut slim (though not excessively thin) and are detailed with shaped shoulders, bucket pockets, and a three button front. Tailored in both plain hues and bolder clothes, their detail came less in the cut and more from their obvious texture. Sporting a notched lapel, it would have been nice to see them also cut with a peaked lapel to see how a visually broader chest balanced out against the collection’s trouser, but it was not to be.
We’ll have all our pictures form Duckie Brown‘s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 offering online shortly.