Herchcovitch;Alexandre: gothic 30s

Shine. I didn’t think we were ready for it again, and yet fall 2011 is set to see it thrust upon us as a key part of many a womenwear collation. It’s the finish that Herchcovitch;Alexandre opted to open his New York fashion week collection with, sending a piece tailoring of tailoring down the catwalk that reflected the abundant light but one whose top and bottom halves were separated by sheer panelling. Down the pieces back ran several buttons, each competing for attention from the elegant roll of the piece’s shoulders. From the cut of the trousers to the top, a sense of early 20th century womenswear is evoked. And that sense carries on through the whole collection. Yet while it evokes that sense it’s clear that this isn’t re-creationism. Herchcovitch;Alexandre hasn’t merely brought old pieces back to life. Each is thoroughly modern, some even futuristic. But if the likes of Catherine Hepburn, those Hollywood greats who could wear heavy tailoring like few others, were still with us I suspect they’d be at least considering turning to Herchcovitch;Alexandre for their next photo call.

Catherine Hepburn was, of course, famed for her masculinised wardrobe, and while Herchcovitch;Alexandre’s autumn / winter 2011 collections includes an array of skirts and dresses, there still exists that sense of the masculine. But it’s a subtle play. Lace sleeves and midriff are usually feminine elements, yet the fact that so many of the pieces’ shoulders are broadened through cut and padding, not to mention that this collection also evokes a sense of a gothic 1930s, leaves them with a distinctly non-sensual feeling.

Allll our pictures from Herchcovitch;Alexandre‘s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 collection are now online. You can view them by clicking on the thumbnails below and browing through the photo gallery..