Prior to its unveiling Lubov Azria, one half of the husband and wife design team behind the label, described the Herve Leger fall 2011 collection as glamazon, an armoured retake on the bandage dresses that the fashion house is known for. And she certainly wasn’t wrong. Figure hugging as always, this wintery take on a well-established formula is something of a revitalisation of the warrior fashion trend.
While others have interpreted the warrior aesthetic as one of cuts and fabric, the latest Leger offering instead communicates its chosen glamazon appeal through adornment. Relying largely on a colour palette in shades of nude, black and white (with the nudes showing a subtle houndstooth pattern), Leger’s adornment comes in the form of patent later, and silver and gold embellishments fused into each garment thus avoiding a change to the tight aesthetic the label is known for.
This fused embellishment is applied to all the collection’s cuts, from it’s short dresses to its floor length ones. The effect is eye catching, and precisely as Lubov Azria described it. Embellished with silver and gold rings that criss-cross the body, many of the pieces come across as a feminised take on medieval chain mail. Others still are so completely embellished that it’s easy to overlook the sheer bandage dresses underneath and come away with the impression that you’re looking solely at a dress made of ancient body armour.
Where pieces aren’t encrusted with embellishment, fabric is woven like rope and stitched above the trademark bandage. When contrasted against the pieces embellished with gold and silver hardware its obvious that these roped pieces are less sumptuous, but the appeal is certainly still there and I feel, may actually last longer. These pieces aren’t set apart form the collection, however. The rope motif feels very much a part of a glamazon story, while the exposed silver and gold zippers each dress feature ties the collection together.
Overall I walked away from Herve Leger’s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 collection feeling as if we’d seen it before. It’s formulaic. It’s tried. It’s tested. And yet none of those facts will do this collection any damage as, when all is said and done, it delivers precisely what we want from the Herve Leger fashion house.
We’ll have all our pictures online shortly and will update this article once we do.