If I were to mention the 70s ‘glam’ soundtrack that backed this catwalk it might leave you with an impression of clothing that sits between glam and sexualised. That is, after all, the most common interpretation of the 70s revival that we’ve encountered since we started our tour of fashion weeks back in January. Yet, showing at Paris fashion week Australian designer Martin Grant avoided the cliche that the choice of music implied. In many a way the pieces were far more Parisian, far more Collins Street (Melbourne, Australia’s home to international, luxury boutiques) then they were Milan. They were young, yet leaned towards elegance as opposed to the wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am the music implied we were going to encounter.
Grant instead left the head turning aspect to what felt like no more than two obvious details per garment. A brown trench, sitting as part of the collection’s brown and black component, featured a split up the back that seemed to open teasingly with each step. The split played second fiddle to the to the trench coat’s shiny, plastic finish and paired together the those two details ensure that nothing else stood out. It was a similar story of dresses; some featured pleats and a repeating check pattern (close up this check pattern of repeating shine and matt the light adding life to garments whose pleats already gave them plenty), others paired strong tonality against high dress splits – yet that feeling of nothing being over the top, of no design being cluttered by too much detail, remained.
The aforementioned shine of a plasticated finish may have been repeated throughout a collection, though the browns and blacks weren’t. As the music changed into something another 70s song, one that spoke of street life and had the woman to the left of me left tapping and bopping away in her seat, the collection moved from winter hues to winter brights. Head turning brights. Reds that would stop even the most jaded of people. None were pure red, and some were pared down against creams, but a shiny, off-red trench coat would have been a show stopper were it not for the fact that it hit the catwalk half way through the show. Red being red, and these reds being so bold, Martin Grant’s autumn 2011 collection moved into something far less demure, far less toned down then what we’d been privy too. It never abandoned its ability to avoid the clutter of excess details, but this is a part of the collection that is far young, far more spirited.
I was only able to secure some detail photos of Martin Grant‘s autumn / fall 2011 collection, which you can see by clicking on the thumbnails below. We’ll bring you the full catwalk collection if the photos come to hand, if not Grant’s collection is one we hope to capture again when it shows at next year’s Melbourne fashion festival.