Nicholas K: hefty opener

With a bass beat that would have easily reverberated around the icy quadrangle of the Lincoln Centre, the first full day of the fall / winter 2011 showings of New York fashion week kicked off. If the pace of the first night’s opener had eased us in to the affair, the briskness we expected of the rest of it markedly appeared on this sub-zero New York morning.

The showing was Nicholas K’s, the design duo behind the label again having the luck to open the week. And they did so with a collection whose casual vibe is precisely what they excel at. It is also decidedly wintery, something to be appreciated on a morning such as this.

More so, it’s laden with attitude. Not the forced attitude that often sees theatrics hit the catwalk but attitude none-the-less. See it in person and you immediately imagine exactly the girl and, to some degree, the guy this collection is aimed at. They’re the type with street cred. The type whose whose sex appeal comes through their obvious confidence and not their need to show off their figure courtesy of revealing cuts and fabrics.

But whilst the hems may be long, the fabrics aren’t always heavy. Indeed it seems for every piece of heavy women’s outerwear there is a sheer top or semi sheer skirt. Where outerwear doesn’t bear weight it tends towards being constructed of leather, with Nicholas K’s autumn / fall 2011 collection laden with leather jackets. Bucking the trend, however, they’re not cut in the guise of the black biker jacket that may become cliche by the time the season arrives.

A dark and modern collection, and another that does much to set forest greens as a colour trend for the season, it’s not all about the attitude personified by tying a lumberjack shirt around one’s waist. From the winter greens in sheers that wouldn’t be amiss on a Ralph Lauren catwalk, to the odd appearance of aviator elements, the collection offers up several stories and many more interpretations. Though always casual, what really ties them together, where the colours and cuts do not, is the length: this is a collection with not a short hem, nor a cropped top, to be seen.

To see all the pictures from Nicholas K‘s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 collection click on the thumbnails below.