We’re back in the Palais de Tokyo. Let me tell you now that the name is something of a misnomer as, despite being in a different part of the same Paris fashion week venue to where we found ourselves earlier today, this is yet another room whose walls and floors have been stripped bare. This is also yet another space lit in non-palatial manner: it’s dark, light illuminating scant little of this square space. It also is another space set up to ensure that the acoustics set a mood, and a low hum penetrates the chatter. Whoever thought it would be a good elemental touch probably isn’t here to endure the sound, however. Either that, or they’ve left early, the drone having either lapsed them into a coma or triggered a migraine. It permeates the skull and it’s potentially less pleasurable then a hangover.
The reason it is used to introduce the collection I can only guess. And my guess is this: it’s an odd choice, and odd choices of music will soon follow to introduce each theme of Nicolas Andreas Taralis’s autumn / winter 2011 collection. A collection that opens with medieval inspired chants, transitions into death metal (surely you saw that transition coming?), before finally offering up something more melodic, more centre of the road.
For the most part, the clothes also match the musical choices.
Cowled tunics inspired by the medieval period make up the collection’s first component. As the
sound of a man attempting to pass his lungs through his throat death metal begins Nicolas Andreas Taralis’s collection transitions into one that is darker, heavier, more alternative. Demographic in mind, the aesthetic is precise, and in this dimly lit space it’s easy to close your eyes and imagine precisely the sort of person that’ll be wearing the collection in the coming seasons. The final, centre of the road brings something more commercial and eye catching, winter colours set against nudity. I’ve phrased that rather blatantly, but accurately so: exposed before us was a model in a one shouldered dress cut with a plunging neckline in such a way that her right breast is barely covered by her long tousled hair; hair which sits so firm that it’s clear a hair stylist has clearly tried to use a lot of hair spray to hold it in place.
The real gem of the collection is, however, in a number of its cuts. Boyfriend shirts are cut so high at the side that they waft up with each step promising to reveal a perfectly formed derriere, a cut which takes thigh high splits to the nth degree. Dresses feature the same sorts of splits, but rising up either leg. Trousers are tailored without pockets, showing off a hint of thigh in an overt take on the cutaway trend.
It’s sexualised, but less so then a fully exposed breast. It’s also far more engaging then the droning hum which both opened and closed this showing.
You can see all of the photos from Nicolas Andreas Taralis‘s autumn / winter 2011 / 2012 collection by clicking on the thumbnails below.