Prabal Gurung: ready made layering

Under the warm lights the catwalk is glowing. Not too strange a fact in itself – lights at a fashion show always have ability to give you a tan – but this is certainly the first catwalk I’ve noted to have a textured catwalk, such is my vantage point. And so it is that Prabal Gurung’s fall 2011 New York fashion week showing opens on a marbled catwalk and Karlie Kloss emerges, like the goddess that she is, to slink down the catwalk and open this showing. And she does so in a red, one shouldered statement dress. The kind that you might label as reminiscent of the recent trend if it weren’t for the fact that, with the cut slanted across her chest, she does it so much justice.

Statement red soon fades to winter off-whites and black. Black lace and black sheers on which the opening is reduced to an accent colour on the pieces. And this is collection with accents galore. Mostly accents of layers, with different cloths layered upon one another. And there in lies its real strength. Most winter collections look to provide fashionisers with a plethora of layers, conscious that they’re going to spend autumn and winter taking layers on and off as they go about their business. Prabal Gurung has by passed that, instead mostly creating layers within each indivual piece. Sometimes they’re in silvers, other times in crochet. Sometimes they’re matt, though more often with a sheen to them, though pieces even exist at the other end of the spectrum in all their sparkled glory. On the whole though, the collections layers are done in ruffles but, at their best, done in sheers.

And those sheers give rise to Prabal’s take on the season’s sheer maxi dress, while elsewhere in the collection the forest greens that many another designer are using are present alongside two-tone bell bottom which, admittedly, aren’t the best take on that trend available to fashionisers.

We’ll have all our photos from Prabal Gurung‘s autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 showing online shortly, and will update this article once we do.