An air raid siren cut through the hushed silence that followed the dimming of the lights at Copenhagen’s City Hall. Was this to be another military inspired collection? No. It was, however, another to open at Copenhagen fashion week with an interpretation of the all-black wardrobe. Though where others had played to layers, pleats and flourishes, label Spon Diogo turned to a modernistic interpretation of black cut along geometric lines. Perhaps the siren was warning of an impending war, as opposed to the memories of the Second World War it induced, given the hint of dystopia, and not military, infused into this offering’s key pieces. It certainly wasn’t a reference to the collection’s sexually subversive elements that we were told would run throughout the collection: that theme made its appearance by way of tail hems and sheer lace.
It wasn’t all black nor dystopian however. Spon Diogo‘s autumn / winter 2011 / 2012 collection may largely be one of monochromatic bearing, but there is to it the slightest infusion of a dark, almost British racing, green. If the green elements tied the collection with its given moniker of Favonio, a reference to the Roman god of plants and flowers Favonius, then this was a garden interpreted at night.
To see select pictures from Spon Diogo showing at Copenhagen fashion week, click on the thumbnails below.