Catwalks have many a shortcoming, not the least of which is a clash between model and and the piece they don. Canali’s spring 2014 showing at Milan fashion week sat sadly discordant in precisely this way – young models with ridiculously good heads of hair taking to the catwalk in cardigans tucked into double-pleated trousers. Likely to happen in real life? Not until Hell freezes over or said models turn 90. This is what happens when clothes designed for a more mature clientele are modelled by a different age group altogether – we get distracted by the wrong details.
Which, in many ways, defeats the purpose of a catwalk. Sure, there’s a broader picture, but just as Canali’s catwalk opened with animated silhouettes of Paris, thus communicating much of the inspiration behind the collection’s motif, so too must the casting communicate (or at least offer symmetry with) just who the collection has been designed for. We should be left to decide the merits of each piece on their own, not ever contemplating the existence, mood or even the age of the model wearing them.
For Canali we should have been left to bask in the tie pin worn as a brooch (an idea you should readily work into your own wardrobe now), question why designers seem intent on offering up Mandarin collars for summer 2014, and enjoy the contrast between the collection’s strict suiting and its casual infusion that seemed to balance the air of a regatta with a spot of cricket – sacrebleu, how Anglo.
All that was there, but far less memorable than my time spent at the show attempting to figure out just who would dress young models in mermaid knit sweaters so naff they should only be worn to drunked Christmas parties. I still don’t know the answer, nor see the logic. But I do see the logic in Canali’s designs – their broader interpretation of tailoring only goes so far to appeal to the young.
You can see all of the Canali spring / summer 2014 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree