Christophe Lemaire and the complete wardrobe

It’s hard to take issue with a fashion label whose collection is based around a strong philosophy. Disagree with it you might, but in an age where so many collections are inspired more by the past than an ideal it’s impossible to hate on having a philosophy altogether.

And have a philosophy to his fall / winter 2012 collection Christophe Lemaire certainly does.

It’s a philosophy that certainly goes a long way to working with my own views on the curated wardrobe: Christophe Lemaire’s fall 2012 collection is one that “offers an alphabet of sartorial terms.” If that’s a rather abstract way of describing a collection then let me elaborate. Christophe Lemaire’s fall 2012 collection is one that allows a woman to create a complete wardrobe. A wardrobe that transitions from around the house to out and about, and one that also transitions into the perfect wardrobe to travel with (that is, at least, one spin you can put on the reversible outerwear that dots the collection). But a collection that allows for a complete wardrobe is not necessarily a curated wardrobe. Here too Christophe Lemaire’s fall 2012 collection stands the test, having moved away from any semblance of man made fibres to be a collection that is, for the first season, constructed of wholly natural fibres.

Complete. Natural. Quality. Ability to be included within a curated wardrobe? Check.

But what of the collection’s actual aesthetic? If you’ve been following’s coverage of the fall 2012 fashion weeks it’ll come as no surprise to you that I’m wont to highlight Christophe Lemaire’s inclusion of masculine outerwear in his next offering. A large part of autumn 2012’s fashion is about an androgynous edge, and Lemaire is one of the designers who plays to it with a balance of often slim silhouettes overlaid by outerwear that has a masculine edge (or perhaps I should say a unisex edge – a number of Lemaire’s fall 2012 outerwear has been cut for both genders and will feature in both his men’s and women’s collections). There is blur, however, with pieces such as the collection’s duffle coat featuring more of a traditional cut and many of the pants taking on the feel of 1920s Oxford bags. And the blur should be there for this particular take on a masculine edge, a take intended to revealed its wearers’ personality rather than masking it.

You can see all of the Christophe Lemaire autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.

Photography by Axl Jansen