Before you entered Costume National’s show, you entered a flowchart. Yes, a literal one, a room-sized piece of art with black squares on white walls offering choices, if-or statements, and conceptual contradictions. A performance artist masked in a leotard of black anonymity contorted herself into shapes where limbs became markers, legs akimbo seeming to point discriminately at words on the wall. Ennio Capasa was thinking about our contradictory world, and the riff was in this unusual collaboration with artist Bastiaan Arler as well as in the clothes.
But the idea of breaking boundaries between contradictory elements – rigidity and fluidity, construction and deconstruction, masculine and feminine – didn’t lead to a lack of coherence in Capasa’s designs. Instead the fall 2014 woman evolved to be relaxed and cool, with clean grey felt suits and pants that nipped in at the ankles like joggers, with tuxedo-style jackets where lapels were deconstructed and made asymmetrical, with one-shouldered flowing dresses and oversized boyfriend coats. In all of these things it didn’t matter if you thought too hard about boundaries or contradictions or order without chaos… for the woman wearing the clothes, their aesthetic value, their ease, is more than clear.
You can see all of the Costume National autumn (fall) / winter 2014 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree