Emilio Pucci is always one of the ‘wow’ runways on the Milan fashion week calendar. We all know in advance that the collection shown will feel luxurious, but that it won’t stray into the realm of Haute Couture. We all know in advance the kind of woman it’ll be designed for: one with bags of confidence and a killer body to boot. Pucci is not designed for everyone. Nor it is designed with only a particular aesthetic in mind; designer Peter Dundas is one of the few willing to completely abandon a past season’s successes. And for fall 2012 that’s precisely what he’s done. Gone is the boho you’ll find on the label’s spring 2012 hangers. Instead Pucci has turned to something darker, something harder.
While it’s still a collection with all the Pucci trademarks (think sheers and cutaways), it’s one that is somehow more conservative. One would be tempted to describe it as more modest, but that isn’t the case. It’s still showy, it’s still revealing, but it’s all just less so. On the whole, it’s a runway collection that seems to demand less perfection of its wearer’s figure.
A lot of that fact comes down to one key element: the dominance of masculinsed tailoring in the collection. It’s not of the relaxed variety that we’ve seen across much of Milan fashion week’s fall / winter 2012 showings. Rather it’s all done with a 1970s air of tuxedo suits and hard little black dresses. While it’s all still Pucci, when fall 2012 rolls along it’s likely that this collection is going to spur on more Helmut Newton inspired pictorials than any other for the season.
You can see all of the Emilio Pucci autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree