If you want to sell menswear to the current generation you have to have a story to tell. It can be a heritage one, it can be a quality one, it can be an authentic one, it can be all three; seldom is it anything other. Their reputation preceeding them, Ermenegildo Zegna are short on neither heritage nor quality stories. But, with designer Stefano Pilati now at the healm, reptuations need not weigh one down. For a fashion house that has done so much in the past to build upon the ideal of the classic suit, such pre-defined notions seem in short supply amongst Ermenegildo Zegna’s spring 2014 collection.
Instead Pilati, though Zegna, has put out a collection made for a different type of male than usual. Spring 2014 is for the man who understands the allure of a suit but refuses to be confined by how 90% of society wears it. No suits (and we’re talking nouns, here) need apply. Rather, Zegna is likely to find clientele in the classic European playboy (or at least the guy who envisages himself as such), not freshly off his yacht, but instead partying ashore, awaiting his return voyage.
For him it’s a collection where suit rules go out the window. Lapels are neither peaked nor notched, instead a non-commital (or perhaps experimental?) merger of the two. Button stances are high, jackets cut long. And the backs of those same jackets? Darted. Even the cloth selected by Pilati refuses to conform to what a suit generally is perceived as, one suit offering a single tone wool jacket against subtle jacquard trousers.
A statement? Indeed – and one worth learning from. Even if every piece is out of your budget, don’t look past the styling and style references of Zegna’s spring 2014 collection – there’s a style lesson for every many with a penchant for tailoring in it.
You can see all of the Ermenegildo Zegna spring / summer 2014 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Also from this fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree