This time last year, Gucci’s Creative Director Frida Giannini unveiled a fall 2011 collection that was to become iconic. It epitomised, nay it dominated, everything so many of us loved about the 70s fashion revival and it did it through three elements: hats, fur and its colour palette. Skip forwards a year to fall 2012 and, as I enter Gucci’s Milan fashion week runway space, it’s impossible not to question how the hell one follows on from something so iconic.
The answer, it seems, is to keep the essence: the masculine, for iconic 70s fashion at its best has a masculine lean.
That, and to move on from the icons that worked this time last year, even if there are people outside the show indulging in them.
And move on Gucci‘s autumn / fall 2012 collection has. Gone is the 70s vibe and the fedoras with it. Gone is the 20s vibe and Deco edge of the fashion house’s spring 2012 collection. Frida Giannini has found yet another period of history for inspiration: the 19th century. But this is no collection of petticoats, instead like so many others designers revealing their interpretation of fall 2012, Giannini is making it a season with a masculine edge. In their own words, Gucci has looked to “the strength of androgyny” and they’ve packaged it all through a noir world view that revolves around a “dramatic sensuality [and] a dark glamour.”
What does that leave you with? Volume. Androgyny in fall 2012 is all about the voluminous. So it is that Gucci’s fall 2012 outerwear feels as if it was borrowed from a men’s collection, its pants have the slouch (but thankfully not the finish) of street-wear, and the collection’s sheers don’t just hang but billow, particularly through the sleeves, with each step a model takes. And there’s much to be learned from this approach to the masculine for the year: while the cuts are voluminous, the silhouette is kept feminine through the use of belted waistlines. Thus there’s no question about the fact that we’re witnessing a highly feminised, as opposed to a sexually ambiguous, interpretation of androgyny.
You can see all of the Gucci fall / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree