KASANE – a Japanese word that means “to layer” is both an allegory and the essence of the concept lying behind the Issey Miyake menswear collection for the autumn / winter 2012 season. Inspired by the quintessence of Kasane – a practical function and artistic impression on the designs – the collection under the reign of four designers successfully supervises reinterpretations of layering techniques through the textile development and tailoring process.
There is a great tribute to the layering concept portrayed by the signature pleating method of the house, as well as by colour degradations and a unique mirage of layering achieved by the special dip–dyeing techniques or texture graduations on the outwear and other parts of the ensembles. As a result, the line for menswear depicts an established yet multidimensional route for Kasane stamped by Issey Miyake’s affinity to Japanese craftsmanship and linking to the country’s traditional home wear.
The collection commences with the signature pleating method expressed by pleated jersey tops presented in the rich palette of colours accompanied with mix pleated bottoms. Some looks are accessorized with leather bags that may become 2-dimensional objects after folding. Arimatsu Shibori technique that has traditional origins was used in the collection completing in a sophisticated check pattern. The dip-dye nature of the technique forms waves of black overlay on the red or grey check flannel jackets and trousers. Another mosaic effect of check visible on coats, capes, jackets and trousers is created as the result of a needle punching technique. Such a curved and irregular pattern requires the two layers of wool gauze to be fed and hand manipulated through a punching machine. What is worth mentioning, there is also an outwear feature made from Eco-pet fabric that stands for the polyester fabric created from the process of recycling plastic bottles. Finally were two looks with a futuristic inclination – a jacket and vest with multidimensional triangular shapes are highly inspired by BAO BAO Issey Miyake collection of handbags launched in 2011.
You can see all of the Issey Miyake autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree