It’s very easy to hear that a collection was inspired by a particular icon and to then imagine what you expect the collection will look like. That’s doubly true when the said icon was at their peak in decades past. Consider this: Kevork Kiledjian’s fall 2012 collection was inspired by British actress Charlotte Rampling. Should you vaguely know of Rampling and the fact that she was at the peak of her fame some four decades past, it wouldn’t be unreasonable for you to imagine a collection that played to 1970s fashion revival. You would be wrong, however.
Kevork Kiledjian’s fall / winter 2012 collection hasn’t so much been designed around the era in which Rampling gained fame, but rather with the actress’ personality in mind. Hence it’s her appeal to Kiledjian as a woman who could be a rebel but “[remain] utterly chic and feminine” while exuding “an almost feline sensuality” that is translated into the collection. But it’s not a literal copy and paste.
Hence these descriptors of Rampling are overlaid upon the Kevork Kiledjian aesthetic we’re familiar with and, if we’re honest, that’s probably not an entirely difficult thing for Kiledjian to achieve. Kiledjian’s crowd (as I thus dub them) probably already conform to the designer’s sense of the ideal woman – cast your eye across the front row and you’ll see plenty a sensual, rebellious, and chic girl in attendance; wallflowers need not apply.
For autumn / fall 2012 Kiledjian has a collection of blacks, reds and granite, mixed across the likes of leather, fur, chiffon and wool. While that sees plenty of what you expect from Kiledjian’s, not the least the sheer panelled dresses which reveals only a hint of underwear and hips, where the designer nails the Rampling vibe is in the wool tweed. Sometimes matt, sometimes spun to shine, the tweed gives the collection a thoroughly English air, particularly when applied to a skin-tight suit that transitions into bell bottoms just below the ankles.
You can see all of the Kevork Kiledjian autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Kelly Defina