The fact that the collection was inspired by the 1982 film Querelle seemingly explains much. Before my time, it’s a film I haven’t taken in so I turned to IMDb to find out more: “French sailor Querelle arrives in Brest and starts frequenting a strange whorehouse.” Rest assured that much of MaxMara’s autumn / fall 2012 collection has been inspired by the film’s costuming, while there’s little to suggest that any part of it has been inspired by the strange whorehouse the film’s namesake has a passion for. Unless what was strange about that whorehouse was that its staff dressed rather masculinely.
This I know not, intrigued as I am about precisely how much stranger this whorehouse could be than any other whorehouse in the world. A purchase from a DVD store will have to scratch that itch. But for those looking to scratch an itch that involves the masculine tailoring so consuming Milan fashion week, then MaxMara’s fall 2012 offering might be right up your alley. (If you think that’s a lady of the knight pun, revel in it. If you don’t, move on.)
Here’s the problem that’s going to emerge with feminine androgyny when winter 2012 comes around: it’s probably not (yet) sexy enough for most people to want to invest in. There’s a good portion of the fairer sex (and a bigger portion of men happy to accommodate them) who would rather throw on a dress or skin tight pants than they would experiment with anything resembling men’s clothing. And while this burgeoning trend offers up masculinity in a feminised silhouette aplenty, it doesn’t offer up the overt head-turning appeal that androgyny as we’ve come to know it (thanks Helmut Newton) largely has. MaxMara have, however, solved that problem for the mass market. Tailored shorts. Not genius, somewhat obvious, but 100% required for the feminised androgyny look to have mass appeal. And MaxMara know a thing or two about mass appeal.
You can see all of the Max Mara autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree