She emerges, her fedora tilted low and accented by a gem shaped like a diamond. Given just how low the music is, you half expect a huskily spoken word or two. But for all the appearance of a Lauren Bacall, she is not. Instead she moves down the New York fashion week runway, followed by more and more looks from Ruffian’s fall 2012 collection.
This time last year it was easy to appreciate Ruffian’s fall 2011 collection. One part lace, one part tuxedos, its vibe lay somewhere in a revival of the Victorian era’s own neo-Gothic movement. Their fall 2012 collection sits differently: like so many collections of note, Ruffian‘s is one that borrows from times past. Here, Victorian motifs are again interlaced through the collection in the guise of ruffled collars. And, just like the Victorian era itself, Ruffian have moved on from the neo-Victorian movement which they see as something of a trademark, instead borrowing for fall / winter 2012 from both the pre and post War eras.
For a fashion label that feels a drive to include razor-sharp tailoring in each collection, that naturally means an exploration of both the masculine and feminine. On the masculine side you have wide leg trousers in plaids along with pants cut from Price of Wales wool cloth, while the collection’s skirt suits all exude a 1940s feel. And it’s here that the collection’s Bacall vibe is joined by a Katherine Hepburn one. It never feels quite as masculine as Hepburn herself was noted for, but it’s there. Elsewhere in the collection you’ll find the likes of pussy bow collars (I suspect we’ll see plenty of these in fall 2012), along with takes on the ever-green cropped outerwear. The devil is in the detail, however, and rear pleats wouldn’t be amiss in almost any wardrobe even if it won’t have photographed particularly well on the catwalk.
As far as fashion goes, Ruffian’s fall 2012 collection is relatively demure, though it’s not without it’s own interpretations of the ‘standout'; a long sleeved, silk velvet dress particularly springs to mind. But given its essence of pre and post war fashion (an interesting avoidance of the 1930’s flapper revival) it was never going to be a collection of wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am pieces anyway. What it is, however, is the embodiment of current era fashion: borrow motifs from decades past, roll them into something modern, and wear them however you like.
You can see all of the Ruffian autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree