Having spent a day journeying from catwalk to catwalk at Paris fashion week, there’s something rather refreshing about arriving at a presentation. Doubly so a well staged one. Presentations can communicate more than their catwalk counterparts can ever hope to. They can be laden with props, motifs, scenes and settings that catwalks simply can’t compete with. At a presentation you cannot only view a collection, you can indulge in its purpose and its being.
Each Paris Fashion Week, Francesco Smalto prove themselves to be the masters of the art of the presentation.
For their spring 2014 Smalto’s presentation was a step across the threshold into yesteryear, with the collection drawing reference from the 1970s and the props from the 1960s. Don Draper was nowhere to be found, however it wasn’t impossible to imagine a Roger Sterling type indulging in the firm shoulders and checked wool of Smalto’s spring 2014 tailoring. Here Smalto have balanced the visuals of a firm shoulder against against lapels that curve at the waist, and jacket hems that curve at their closure.
As it is with catwalks, Smalto’s newest offering was presented in several parts, naturally offering gents summer 2014 options for their work, soirees and vacations. It’s the latter that gave the strongest visuals, Smalto’s colour selections for the season visually stronger than a large part of the same collection’s tailoring. That’s not to say that there was anything skewiff about about any of the suits (though I’d certainly avoid the full double-breasted cut), but the glory of suits is either in the subtle details or in the confidence of the man who embodies the look. Sadly, suits at fashion weeks seldom look their best when presented on models not yet adept at communicating their glory.
You can see all of the Smalto spring / summer 2014 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Also from this fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree