Austerity can be sensual. If you doubted it you need only have watched Stephane Rolland’s haute couture autumn 2013 show, which saw Spanish dancer Rafael Amargo stomping and spinning in the center of the square runway as if he were confronting an imaginary bull. Like the sharp, forceful movements and empassioned cries of the Spanish dancer, Rolland’s pieces were formed of that combination of austerity and sensuousness: origami folds and pleats contrasted by the most airy billows of liquid silk crepe or glazed chiffon.
It was the movement of those free-flowing, aqueous gowns that made the most impact on the runway – though doubtless most photos will fail to capture beauty of the movement as it was in real life. Rolland’s couture woman was a Spanish Princess – an Infanta – marching nobly forwards, head held high, leaving a trail of silk and heartbroken suitors in her wake.
The only accessories of the collection – and the only ones needed – were light-reflecting belts made from optical glass mirrors. On some of Rolland’s streaming gowns they were the only thing holding shape to the waist, looping into the fabric and clutching sensually at the bare skin of a model’s lower back while the diaphanous fabric at the back of the dress was left to float free. It’s hard to put words to such elegance: except to say that, when it enters a room, it trumps all else.
You can see all of the Stephane Rolland haute couture autumn 2013 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Photography by Imaxtree