Temperley turns to Eastern Block in Autumn 2012

Most of us love a fashion collection that romanticises the foreign. In fact, if the prevailing tastes in fashion are anything to go by, it’s fair to say that most of us love a collection that romanticises anything of past appeal.

For autumn 2012, Temperley London has picked up on just that fact, romanticising Eastern Europe and its former fashions with a particular concentration on the Cossacks.


I say there’s a particular concentration on a loosely defined Cossack culture, but this really comes about as a result of the runway’s styling. Take away the frequent use of the picture-dominating Cossack fur hats and what you’re left with is a selection of pieces whose Slavic influences are clear, but whose precise origins are indeterminate. Were it not for the hats, it’s likely that we would refer to Temperley’s autumn / winter 2012 collection as one that romanticises the Slavic armies of old more so than specific Slavic cultures. Further take away the collection’s interpretation of old Slavic military uniforms, where tassels replace sabres and belts look like they could have been found at an army surplus store, and it’s unlikely that most people would have picked up on the Slavic references at all, even if some pieces do look like they were designed for Anna Karenina.

But we shouldn’t take away anything form Temperley’s autumn 2012 collection. Some reviewers may have turned their nose at it, but I suspect that Templerley will easily find a spiritual home amongst those people who were heavy investors in Gucci’s autumn / fall 2009 collection. Gucci may have turned to bohemian fashion then and again for pre-fall 2011, but the idea is relatively the same: take a period and culture past, adapt it to the modern world, then let fans of your offering invest in whatever suits their lifestyle. I’m yet to meet anyone who opted for Gucci’s autumn 2009 look head to toe, but I know plenty of people who invested in multiple pieces, self-styling and making the look their own. Temperley are offering exactly the same opportunity.

You can see all of the Temperley London autumn (fall) / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.

Photography by Imaxtree