A bang or a wimper? Thats the question mark at the end of anything. The anticipation was that, with Maticevski as the closing show, LMFF 2012 would go out with a bang.
Look one seemed to confirm it in a heartbeat. Any expectation of frills and soft femininity were crushed under the sharp heel of a gilt-faced warrioress. “Skimpy” sounds like a dirty word, but it wasn’t when Maticevski’s hand was the one applying it. On this runway skimpy cuts and sheer fabrics were synonymous with a kind of tribal-esque fierceness.
The fierceness of those first all-black looks subsided as the show marched on, however. Black gave way to white and nude and silvery silk. The primitive undercurrent remained, though, fabrics often draping strategically as if hanging by a mere thread; almost as though constructed in a time before complex fastenings, and indeed underwear, existed. These were the most beautiful to view on a runway – just fabric hanging carelessly from perfect forms – even if also the least practical.
The most structured pieces felt the most underwater-inspired; those frilled and sequined pieces we previewed the night before that conjured mental associations of mermaids and stingrays and sea anemones. The detail, too, got thicker and heavier and more impressive with each outfit.
Maticevski’s show could have been more tightly curated in order to keep up the energy and wow factor that exploded onto the runway when it opened. But while the embellished, appliquéd, voluminous pieces were a different kind of impressive to those initial barely-there numbers, each was a decibel that contributed to the loudness of the finishing bang.
You can see all of the Toni Maticevski autumn / winter 2012 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.
Also from this fashion show
Photography by Kelly Defina