Z Zegna: the road diverges

There’s no room for uncertainty, profess Z Zegna of their spring / summer 2013 collection. And true, these are shapes and colour ways that wouldn’t work if done by halves.

This season Z Zegna moves to roomy, comfortable cuts. The jacket has cycled back to three or four buttons, heightening the wearer visually especially when paired with boxy shoulders and pants cropped to just above the ankle. External pockets and drawstrings fastened with toggles bring a kind of sporty sensibility that sits naturally with the freedom of movement favoured by the pieces, but it’s not so much about reinterpreting sportswear as it is about paying heed to function.

The colour palette at Z Zegna was another surprise, bucking the trend of bright primaries seen on many other runways and instead referencing taupe, khaki and blue as the base hues, punctuated by melon, avocado, lemon and sea green. The fluorescent light sculptures of Dan Flavin fed their luminous inspirations into this near retro-feeling colour palette – an inspiration also reflected in the lighting of the Milan fashion week (MFW) space.

With a freshness brought about by its willingness to find elegance in something other than the sharply tailored, Z Zegna spring 2013 feels all at once vintage yet modern. It’s a collection pushing a different direction, but one that still closely mirrors many of the season’s trends – like prints, layering, and texture. But for the leisurely Z Zegna man coolness is a byproduct of comfort. As the brand says, “dress to be comfortable, as a state of mind.”

You can see all of the Z Zegna spring / summer 2013 runway collection by clicking on a thumbnail on the left. From there you can browse through each of the pictures from the fashion show.

Also from this fashion show.


Photography by Imaxtree