Dark, smokey eyes are oft left for the colder months as dewy fresh looks take over with the strengthening sun. But there’s plenty of room for a smokey eye come spring 2012. In fact, it was a trending look on the spring 2012 runways from Gucci’s heavy take to a smokey shimmer at the likes of Emanuel Ungaro and Erin Fetherston. But while sooty black eyeshadow doesn’t always feel suitable for spring, the peacock plumage of purple and blue edged with black – as seen on the runway of Rodarte spring 2012 – is one you won’t regret mastering.

Perfect for fresh spring days and warm summer nights, and complimentary to a number of 2012′s fashion trends, you can follow the steps after the break to create this beauty look for yourself.

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Click the thumbnails for full pictures

Photo shoot credits

Model: Sophie Van Den Akker @ Chadwick Models
Photographer: Kelly Defina at kellydefina.com
Makeup artist: Shev Kelly for Napoleon Perdis
Hair: Annika Bowen @ Annika’s
Stylist: Mercy Watson

Starry night eyes: the how to

Prime

1. Start the look by applying a moisturising cream or serum to the entire face, followed by a skin primer. Prep the lips with a lip primer if desired.
2. Apply your first coat of mascara.

Base

1. Apply foundation to the face.
   Tip: Shev Kelly used a spray foundation (Napoleon Perdis Boudoir Mist Spray Foundation). Secure hair away from face with a headband or clip and cover clothing. Hold can 20cm (8 inches) from face, close eyes and release a fine mist using small circular motions. Start with the forehead and work downward. Remove any excess foundation with a cosmetic sponge or blend out with your desired foundation brush.
2. Conceal dark circles with a concealer pen on the under eye area to hide darkness/discoloration. Be sure to warm the concealer into the skin with your finger tip.
3. Apply a touch of concealer across the entire eye lid from the lash line to the brow bone, creating a matte base for your eye shadow.
4. Lightly set the foundation across the ‘feature focus’ area of the face with a powder.

Eyes

1. To create a smokey eye line, use an angled eyeshadow brush to apply a black liquid liner under the lower lash line.
2. Using a flat brush, press purple eyeshadow over the existing lower lash eyeliner.
3. Apply a purple eyeliner pencil over the mobile lid as a base for your shadow. Blend out softly above the socket line.
4. Using a large, flat shading brush, set the eye pencil base with your purple eyeshadow.
5. Apply a black eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye to create a unique smoky shade, blend just past the socket line.
6. Add a splash of color to the inner corner of the eye using a shimmer of blue shadow.
7. Using a contour brush, sweep a beige / neutral eyeshadow through the socket line.
8. With a fine brush, apply black liquid liner to the upper lash line. Create a crisp line, from the inner corner of the eye and tapering at the outer corner of the eye.
9. For added intensity, apply black eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eye line.
10. Apply two coats of mascara to the top lashes and one coat to the lower lashes.
11. For a bold lash boost, add false lashes to the top lash line.

Brows

1. Comb the brows upwards and outwards with a clean mascara wand then define with eyebrow pencil.
2. Set unruly brows in place by brushing on clear mascara.

Cheeks

1. Using a contouring blush brush, apply a bronzer as a contoured blush.
2. Highlight the top of the cheekbones with a soft pink blush.

Lips

1. With a lip brush, coat the lips in a nude shade of lip colour.

Starry night eyes: makeup used

The following Napoleon Perdis products were used to create the above makeup look and tutorial.

• Prime

  Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum (6), Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Primer (7), Auto Pilot Lip Service (2), Long Black Mascara Double Black (8)

• Base

  Boudoir Mist Spray Foundation, Mighty Concealer Pen (5), Camera Finish (3)

• Eyes

  China Doll Gel Eyeliner Equinox (4), Color Disc Purple Haze, Eye Pencil Purple Reign, Color Disc Queen of the Night, Color Disc Premium Denim, Color Disc Trench Coat, Long Black Mascara Double Black

• Brows

  Eyebrow Pencil Pale Rider, Peep Show Mascara Madame Crystal

• Cheeks

  Color Disc Trench Coat, Mosaic Bronzing (1), Mosaic Gleamer

• Lips

  Luminous Lip Veil In the Flesh

Other makeup looks

If you’d to take read up on other makeup looks and how-tos, then point your browser to our 2012 makeup trends guide.